Fanny Parkes' India

Fanny Parkes travels in colonial India 19th century
Fanny-Parkes-book-krishna-ganesha

Fanny Parkes' India

Who was Fanny Parkes

Fanny Parkes was born in Conwy (Wales, UK) in 1794 as Frances Susanna Archer to Ann and Captain William Archer of the 16th Lancers. On March 25, 1822. Fanny resided in India from 1822 until 1846. She married Charles Crawford Parks, a writer for the East India Company.

Fanny was well known for her vast journals on colonial India, where she resided for over 24 years. These are described in her memoirs “Wanderings of a Pilgrim in Search of the Picturesque,” in which she only claimed authorship with an Urdu script signature. Extracts from her memoirs, Begums, Thugs, and White Mughals, were made available in 1970 for the first time since their publication in 1850. Barbara Eaton’s debut biography, Fanny Parks: Intrepid Memsahib, was published in 2018.

Fanny Parkes in India and her documentation of India

Parkes first lived in Calcutta in 1822, then moved to Allahabad 10 years later owing to her husband’s appointment. Parks authored two books on her equestrian travels across India, where she made friends and learned Persian, Hindustani, and Urdu.

Her extensive memoirs, written in an engaging way, demonstrate mental independence. Parkes provides an endearing pre-colonial viewpoint on northern India and its peoples and customs, documenting changes in Britain’s rule over India, the economic consequences of such policies, and domestic concerns in Indian culture. She met affluent socialites as well as famine-stricken Kanauj locals while traveling across the mountains from Landour to Shimla. Parks’ tale displays affection and respect for the diversity of Indian culture. It contains a dictionary of words and a collection of translated Indian proverbs.

Some of Parkes’ articles address sensitive themes at the time. One such extreme example was the grisly death of a widowed-lady by way of Sati forced by men who believed that male heirs had a greater claim to her belongings. Parks decried the occurrence and then criticised England’s regulations controlling married women. Parks also objected to a plan to sell the Taj Mahal, which she compared to Westminster Abbey. In contrast to Europe’s lack of regard for Indian culture, she noted the natural beauty of Delhi and Banaras (Varanasi), as well as intriguing fashion and food. In one of her final writings, she highlighted her dissatisfaction with West after exiting India.

The Ice Pits at Allahabad, sketched by Fanny Parkes

The Ice Pits at Allahabad, sketched by Fanny Parkes

Fanny Parkes' India Tour by Indian Frontiers

This Indian Frontiers tour traces Fanny Parkes’ time in India — the places she visited, admired, and occasionally found challenging. Parkes’ writings serve as a valuable time machine, transporting us back to the India of almost 200 years ago. This tour uses her perspective to decipher the culture and cultural evolution of India in a comparative study between her time and the present day. It is important to note that Fanny Parkes’ India existed before 1857. This was a period when conditions were starkly different, the oppression by the British East India Company was at its peak, and widespread dissatisfaction with Company rule was rapidly brewing. Indian Frontiers has very carefully curated this tour that is much more than just a leisure visit of India – it is a learning experience!

Highlights

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