After discussions about Kolkata’s renowned Rosogolla calmed down, debates started regarding the city’s delicate and aromatic Biryani. It wouldn’t be inaccurate to suggest that what Kolkata enjoys now could soon gain recognition across the country.
While Mumbai is known as India’s financial hub, Kolkata is often referred to as the culinary heart of the nation. The street cuisine in Kolkata is extremely creative; during the Covid-19 pandemic, they even crafted sandesh shaped like the virus itself. Similarly, when Titanic secured Oscar wins, markets were swamped with sandesh designed to look like boats.
There is much debate among specialists about whether to label a sweet fig-ball Biryani as rosogolla Biryani. Yet, nowadays, due to restrictions and lockdowns, more focus tends to be placed on appealing visuals for social media. The rare truffles called morels, or guchhi, grown in Himachal Pradesh, have made their way onto celebrity menus, leading to a surge in their demand and the import of enhanced varieties from Europe.
Bengal’s Biryani might have drawn inspiration from the style created in Oudh’s kitchens, potentially being brought to Bengal by Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Oudh in exile. Alternatively, it may have been a practical decision to incorporate potatoes instead of more meat, as the nawab brought the tradition of serving paan along with exotic spices and crushed pearls.
One of the most important additions to Kolkata’s culinary scene is the significant impact of Chinese cuisine. Nearly two hundred years after the initial Chinese traders arrived in the city, their culinary legacy continues. Noodles and chow can be found everywhere, from street sellers to upscale restaurants, although they often have a more Indian flavor.
An authentic Chinese dinner offers a wide range of soups, accompanied by wonton wraps and various stir-fried or steamed dishes, concluding with a bowl of rice. In Chinese cooking, no part of the ingredient goes to waste; if they are preparing duck, every bit of it will be used. In Kolkata, the Chinese-style dishes are primarily vegetarian, featuring mushrooms, broccoli, cabbage, and baby corn deep-fried and seasoned with hot, sweet, and sour sauces, often enhanced with the addition of ajinomoto.
Inspired by David Attenborough’s documentary A Life on Our Planet, which showcases the quest for nature in untouched areas, it’s somewhat ironic that the first foreigners to settle along the Hooghly river were his ancestors.
William Hickey, an 18th-century British writer and observer, describes what it meant to be the “king of the table” during Calcutta’s earlier days. Details of lavish meals paired with trifle puddings continue to be cherished in the planter’s club located in the hill stations. Some of the best oil paintings show a time that mixed feudal land ownership with colonial activities, along with a wealthy lifestyle. This combination led people to think that the elite enjoyed food more than those who actually produced it.
In 1943, Bengal faced a terrible famine that caused the deaths of over three million individuals because the British prioritized feeding their army, resulting in a disaster of their own making. Freda Bedi, a follower of Gandhi, accurately states that the issue was not just about rice and whether it was available; rather, it was about divisions in society. At the end of his documentary, Attenborough concludes that many people are living in fragments, and it will take a lot of time for the planet to heal. This healing cannot happen until there is a united effort. However, during the pandemic, we are taking steps to heal ourselves by making the most of what we have. It is better to enjoy the local dishes like rosogolla and Biryani instead of searching for truffles that are hard to find to satisfy our cravings.